By allansc2005 on Apr 23, 2009 | Reply

It sounds like the rubber gromet between the tank and the toilet either has holes in it,or is worn out.

Replace it and that should do it.

By neilg32degree on Apr 25, 2009 | Reply

you more than likely have lime and sediment caught up in the fill valve, (guts). I would suggest you change out the fill valve, (only about 12 bucks at Lowes). before you hook it back to the supply line, connect the supply line to the shut off valve, tap on the supply pipe tp loosen any sediment. take the open end of the supply tube aim it into a bucket and then turn on the supply valve, tapping occasionally. this will eliminate any loose debris in the pipes that would break away and clog the valve or fill valve.

By Jeff on Apr 29, 2009 | Reply

the rubber “flapper” that opens and closes on the bottom of the tank probably has a leak easy to replace!

By rjohnson442000 on Apr 29, 2009 | Reply

It is easier in most cases to just swap out the innards kit. They’re cheap and easy to install. Hint; spend a little extra and get the good one cuz the cheaper ones are pretty flimsy and don’t last that long.

By Tomek C on Apr 29, 2009 | Reply

First turn off the water with the valve on the side, take the top of, and most of the timeit is that little chain that gets tangled up, and the other thing is that little rubber thing that sits over the hole, but take the top of the flusher, cut the water off, drain all the water by simply flushing the toilet, and play with that little lever ( maybe that little air filled ball kind of thing is not leveled right) and see what happens

By Lance on Apr 29, 2009 | Reply

Adjust the float. If your float is on an arm (8 or 10 inch rod with a float on the end usually extending to the right from the valve on the left) carefully bend the arm downward towards the bottom of the tank. If you have a sliding float (it’s a smaller float with no arm and it’s usually to the left side of the tank) pinch the small stainless steel clip that holds the float on the adjusting rod and slide the float and clip down about a quarter of an inch.

By rossislx on Apr 30, 2009 | Reply

No not really what sort of system do you have in there? Ball float? (older kind) or a newer one? Either way they all work with the same mechanical goal. The tank is to fill to a certain level the regulator (float) raises to a certain level is auto shutoff. These adjustments sometimes seem to require more adjustment then our common sense tells us or we hold back because we don’t want to over adjust. Make the adjustment on the float whatever is necessary. all the way till the auto shut off rises high enough to shut of. this is usually a sign that this “gut are beginning to warethe handle is loose the arm from handle to chain needs to be shortened up Good luck PS be sure the water intake is not turned on to allow more flow into the tank then necassary

By ButtUglyJeff on May 3, 2009 | Reply

Turn the water off to the toilet, completely. Let in sit for a few hours and see where the water level drains down to. If the water level stops draining ate the level of the flapper (where the water goes into the toilet bowl) then replace the flapper only, for about $5 to $8. If it drains all the way to the bottom of the tank, then either the tank to bowl gasket is leaking, or the base for the flapper is the problem. This will involve removing the tank, from the bowl, for repair.

At that point I say replace all the mechanics, since you have to go through the effort. A complete mechanical kit costs between $15 and $30, tank to bowl bolts cost about $2, and a tank to bowl gasket is about $3 to $4. Plan on an hour of your time, if you are at least mildly handy. Or plan on a plumber to charge you for an hour of labor and some sort of trip charge.

Good luck

By alsdrywall1 on May 4, 2009 | Reply

Go and buy a new toilet bowl repair kit from the locall hardware store, and follow the instructions.